Tobacco shop owner Jad, 21, smokes a cigarette while sunbathing on the concrete esplanade off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel

Beirut On Sea

Benjamin Cremel

 2023 – Beirut, Lebanon

About this series

If seaside promenades could talk, Beirut’s Corniche would have plenty to narrate. Once buzzing with careless beachgoers and Mediterranean waves, the boardwalk has been witness to everything from civil war to broken dreams.
It’s hard not to notice the group heavily tanned men, young and old, congregating around what appears to be an infinity pool backdropped by snow-capped mountains and freshly built skyscrapers.
They talk about their love for the sun and sea. Some apply tanning oils, others prefer carrot creams. Some shave their legs, others boast hairy chests. Some play racquetball, others bet on cards. Some worship the Prophet, others swear by Jesus. There’s no right or wrong, no one is judging. They feel free here, on the edge of their broken country.
In a multi-confessional city, several generations come together for a swim, a laugh, or just to pass the time they have plenty of. « No storm, no hail, no conflict can keep me away from this place », says Abu Khodr, 85, the eldest among them who says to have never missed a day of swimming for the past 40 years.
While some of the jobless youngsters next to him look with glistening eyes at planes flying overhead, dreaming of a golden visa that will take them away from their country’s misery, the blue-eyed quips with wise elegance, « I’ve never been happier anywhere else. It’s paradise here. »

Men sunbathe next to a swimming pool by the Mediterranean Sea off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. The pool is kept empty on purpose on days when swimming in the pristine waters of the Mediterranean is possible. ©Benjamin Cremel
A man with an AK47 tattoo as well as a rose tattoo sunbathes by the Mediterranean Sea off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel
A man smokes waterpipe on the concrete esplanade by the Mediterranean Sea off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel
Mohammed, 85, better known as Abu Khodor prays off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. Abu Khodor is fasting for Ramadan. He says the sun and sea give him all the energy he needs during the Muslim holy month. ©Benjamin Cremel
A man sunbathes near the AUB Tower on the concrete esplanade by the Mediterranean Sea off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel
Tamer shows the tattoo depicting his late mother whom he lost to cancer 3 years ago after going for a swim off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. Tamer is not fasting for Ramadan this year because of gym engagements. ©Benjamin Cremel
Jad, 21, (bottom L) poses with friends while sunbathing on the concrete esplanade off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 4, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel
Snow covers Mount Sannine as boys splash water in a swimming pool by the Mediterranean Sea off the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on March 31, 2023. ©Benjamin Cremel
Mohammed, 85, better known as Abu Khodor sits in the sun at the Corniche al-Manara in the Lebanese capital Beirut on April 1, 2023. Unless he’s out of town, Abu Khodor says he’s never missed a day of swimming, braving storms and shootings. The widower hasn’t seen his 8 Canada-based children and 40 grandchildren and great-grandchildren since he lost his wife 3 years ago. ©Benjamin Cremel

Photographer: Benjamin Cremel
Nationality: French
Based in: London, UK
Website: www.benjamincremel.com