Sonam, is heading back to her Tent after collecting drinking water from Hanle river. At 4,941 metres above sea level, the summers are not quite warm –in Hanle Valley, it can snow or rain at any time of the day or night. © Ritayan Mukherjee

The Women Pastoralists of Changthang

Ritayan Mukherjee

2024 – Ongoing — Changthang Plateau, Ladakh India

About this series

The Changpas are transhumance pastoralists originating from the Changthang region of the Tibetan Plateau, which extends into southeastern Ladakh. According to records, a large section of the Changpa population migrated out of Tibet into the Indian part of Changthang in the eighth century AD. The territory is vast and rugged with long and harsh winters, and woefully short summers. Vegetation is scarce due to the terrain’s hard soil, as a result of which the nomadic Changpas move during the summer months, in search of literal greener pastures. They journey across pasturelands in the valley that are allotted to them by the head of their communities, spending their warmer days combing the fine, feathery pashmina or cashmere wool from the Changhthangi goats’ soft undercoat. They are also keepers of Yaks , an animal which plays an integral role in Himalayan ecology. 
In Changpa society, women hold a significant position. These skilled shepherdesses carry out their daily tasks with efficiency, even amid Changthang’s thin air and terrifying height. They easily manage their houses in addition to taking on social duties like administrative labor.  This is a glimpse into their everyday routines.

Pashmina goats out for the day at high altitudes in Hanle valley. Through most of the year, the animals graze in pastures located at a height of more than 4,500 meters. Women perform this duty almost every day. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
In her makeshift tent Sonam, is making butter tea which is traditionally known as Po Cha. Po-cha is one of the major staple diet for among Changpa community. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
When the herds return after a full day of grazing, it is essential to count them and separate the female goats. Once this is done, the milking begins. Mostly women volunteers for the work. During summer she milks these goats up to thrice a day. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
Yama and Pema busy making wool. Changpa women are experienced herders; younger women usually take the animals for grazing, while older women participate in milking and making dairy products. The men in the community also herd the animals, as well as shear them and sell the animal products. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
The summer days are so busy for women that sometimes a lunch break is a luxury – so the Changpas settle for fruit or dried yak meat and a few staples made of barley. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
When the herds return after a full day of grazing, it is essential to count them and separate the female goats. Once this is done, the milking begins. Mostly women volunteers for the work. During summer she milks these goats up to thrice a day. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
Two Changpa women returning to their rebo after collecting shrubs like artemisia for fuel. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
Somewhere in eastern ladakh two women are trying to set a kitchen inside a tent while their husbands away with the herd.. Kitchen plays a crucial role in the daily life of the Changpas. It keeps them warm in chilly winter night and also during prolonged winter where temperature can deep as low as -25’c. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
Pema , is looking out from her Rebo . The Changpas live in tents known as rebos. To make a rebo, yak wool is spun into yarn by the families, then woven and stitched together. The material protects the nomads from the extreme cold and icy winds. The rebo is erected over a pit about two feet deep and held in place by wooden posts. A distinct family unit occupies each rebo. Entire process of making a Rebo is a complicated affair and women manages every stages. ©Ritayan Mukherjee
Somewhere in eastern Ladakh Little Stenzin receive a warm hug from her grandmother who came to visit him from a village. ©Ritayan Mukherjee

Photographer: Ritayan Mukherjee
Nationality: Indian
Based in: Kolkota, India
Website: www.anobservantowl.in
Instagram: @rikhmukherjee

Ritayan “Rikh” Mukherjee is an independent photographer based in Kolkata, India. Ritayan had a variety of publications in the previous few years, including two books. The World Bank Group, The People’s Archive Rural India, UNDP, Down to Earth, Spiegel, and others are among my editorial clientele. ritayan also contributed to three books and was the recipient of the Ramnath Goenka Excellence in Journalism Awards (RNG Awards), India’s most prestigious journalism honour. Since 2016, Ritayan have been working on a long-term project to capture the lifestyles of pastoral and nomadic communities in India, particularly the western and eastern Himalayas. The name of my project is “Sans Terre”.